Michael Thomas: Designing in Opera
“I have always admired stylishly confident women who dress with great authority.
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From Ruth Carter’s “garments of protest” in Do the Right Thing to Diana Ross stopping the world in Jon Higgins’ designs, Black fashion designers stand at the forefront of fine art bringing a strong sense of self to the fashion world. These designers work with performing artists to create experiences of truth, beauty and authority. Black designers hold the tradition of setting trends and breaking down barriers. They create pivotal moments in history and art. Following the tradition of costume and fashion designers like Jay Jaxon, Designer Michael Thomas from Philadelphia, PA sets his own path of greatness through fashion. Thomas uses his designs to dress opera singers in authority.
Michael Thomas Originals designs gorgeous gowns for opera singers in concert and costume design for operas. His love and appreciation for opera started in middle school with his English teacher. Ms. Gavula assigned operatic librettos as literature to her students, so when Thomas first saw Aida starring the marvelous Angela Brown, he already had the knowledge base to appreciate the artform. The coalescence of lighting and the brilliantly colored costumes captured his attention immediately. “Sitting in the theater and capturing the amazing talents of the entire production,” Thomas says, “inspired me to once write an opera of my own.” Although he did not have the musical background to support this dream, this love for opera would find its way back to him.
Featured soloists (left to right) Funmike Lagoke as The Everlasting, Rodrick Dixon as Shaman, and Karen Slack as Eternal Mother on stage with conductor Yannick Nezet-Sequin at the Philadelphia Orchestra world premiere of Hannibal Lokumbe's "Healing Tones on March 28, 2019, at Verizon Hall.
Thomas never imagined that his talent and love for design would one day meet his love for opera. This dream continues to come true especially when he was selected to do costume design for Hannibal Lokumbe’s Healing Tones. The opera premiered with the Philadelphia Orchestra in March of 2019. Thomas designed costumes for The Eternal Mother and the Shaman. Charged with the task of designing based on the text, Thomas used the movement and color presented by the lyrics to create costumes that tell the story. Through his designs, the characters present their authority.
Thomas currently designs for opera singers like Karen Slack, who he met through Healing Tones. He often designs custom gowns for singers like Slack for recitals, concerts, and other special events. When it comes to designing gowns for women, Thomas puts the woman’s body first and takes time understanding the individual figure of his clients. He does not make assumptions when it comes to his clients. Thomas notes, “Many designers say they are designing with the client in mind, but the Michael Thomas Brand takes [this philosophy] literally. The custom division of the Michael Thomas Brand starts crafting greatness from the initial encounters with the clients.
Soprano Karen Slack in Recital wearing an original Michael Thomas design.
Thomas wishes to build today’s opera stars through style and fashion, and his work proves he can do just that. He hopes to continue his work with Black opera singers and specifically with The Metropolitan Opera National Council Auditions. “I want to help and design gowns for their African or African American singers to perform in as they embark on auditions! I don’t want any Black opera singers to feel they can’t sing because they don't have the funds to afford a star wardrobe.”
In a world where Black designers are underserved and underappreciated, Thomas does not shy away from the hard work or added pressure of being a Black designer. The Michael Thomas Brand’s prioritization of the client’s body encourages her to have power within that body and authority when she performs. The worlds of fashion and opera need Thomas because he champions art, passion and love to create beauty. Opera singers truly have a “Designer in [their] Pocket” with Michael Thomas.